I’ve not mentioned food and drink much. As I don’t want anyone worrying I may be wasting away or dehydrated, I decided to put that right. Orkney has loads of good places to buy food and drink – whether to eat on the premises or take back to cook in your van. There are several supermarkets, plenty of bakeries and tea rooms, four distilleries, a brewery – everything you need.

Orkney specialities include a farmhouse cheese, a little like halloumi, ice cream (I recommend the whisky and marmalade) and bread made with traditional bere wheat. We tried as many as we could, although I generally forgot to photograph them before sinking my teeth in!

We had the bere wheat in the form of a bannock, which is a kind of bread roll. The Empire biscuits aren’t specific to Orkney, but they do seem to only be available in Scotland. Gary likes the ones with a jelly tot best, I prefer the lemon and raspberry.

Gary tried a selection of Orkney beers and a traditional steak pie when our friend took us to lunch in the brewery and I had a burger with haggis (and possibly an Orkney fudge cheesecake). Thanks, Jim – it was delicious.